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The
farmer went by the name “Boats.” I never learned his family name and
his Christian name kept me baffled, but that wasn’t important.
What was important to me was getting to
the farming community of Kopjes and then on to the bird hunting in
the farmland of the South African countryside south of
Johannesburg. My hunting partner on the South African bird hunting
safari was Lynn “Doc” Greenlee and our trip was organized by Chris
Styen (then) manager of Rocco Gioia’s Landela Lodge on his Casketts
Ranch (www.rocsafaris.co.za), where our safari began and would end
after another five days of bird hunting.
Chris had booked Boats and his farm for a
full day of bird hunting and the primary species was going to be
guinea fowl, which, for me, was both good and bad. Good, because
there would be ample opportunity to hunt the large birds and bad
because I was on a losing streak when it came to killing one of the
big birds. In the first few days of our two week safari I had
failed to hit a single guinea fowl although I’d bagged my share of
all the other game birds that we’d hunted. I knew the reason I was
missing the big birds—I was underestimating both the speed and
distance. Later I learned my mistakes are actually fairly common
among Americans hunting African birds. The problem had been hammered
home to me the day before when we were hunting the lands around the
newly opened Sondela Lodge. At the time the lodge had been gaining
a reputation for the variety of bird hunting opportunities but since
then it has morphed into a nature reserve and no longer offers
hunting, which is a loss for sportsmen and sportswomen. On the
other hand, another operation, by the same name, Sondela Adventures,
(www.sondelaadventures.com/home.html), is offering tailor made bird
hunting in the same region of South Africa.
Joyce
Viljoen, who was then the manager of the lodge, had arranged for a
local PH, Rob James, to serve as our guide. The evening before Rob
arrived Joyce assured us that we would have a good hunt, not just
because of abundant game bird population but because Rob was an
excellent guide, hunter, and had a brace of well trained hunting
dogs.
“Every year a few more international
hunters return to hunt with Rob because he is so good at what he
does,” she said.
In the mid-1990s bird hunting in Africa,
for many hunters, was still a sideline event to big game hunting.
At the time few American hunters were actually booking bird hunting
safaris, but since then growing numbers of American and European
hunters have discovered Southern Africa’s wealth of birds.
Ironically, both Robert Ruark and Peter Capstick, both icons of
American outdoor writing, had covered bird hunting in their books.
For Doc and me our bird hunting safari was
the culmination of a year of discussion and planning that began on
an earlier hunt on Casketts Ranch.
The First Miss and Spooked
The plans for our hunt were simple; we
wanted to visit different parts of RSA, never spending more than a
few hours on the road between hunts. We wanted to hunt as many
species of game birds as possible in ten days of actual hunting. We
started our hunting on a small farm near Johannesburg, roamed
southward and then back toward Landela Lodge, Rocco Gioia’s well
known game ranch bordering Kruger Park, and then we returned to
Johannesburg and turned north. The Sondela hunt was the northern
phase of the trip and was the mid point of our hunt. The problem
was that on the first day of our hunt I’d blown an easy shot a
guinea fowl that flushed about ten yards in front of me. It was a
classic rising pheasant shot in the states, one that every bird
hunter is expected to make with ease. I missed. Ten minutes later
I missed again, this time a crossing, left to right, shot. Between
those misses I’d put two francolins in my game bag. But the guinea
fowl had spooked me.
That is the problem with missing a bird
that should have been an easy hit—you can spook yourself. One of
the stories in my collection of short stories about Americans in
South Africa (Last Supper in Paradise) is simply titled “Dennis” and
it is the story of a hunter who becomes spooked when he is unable to
hit a game animal. The big game aspect of the story is loosely
based upon a real incident that took place on Rocco’s Casketts Ranch
but the meat of the story is taken from my failure to kill a
specific game bird—the guinea fowl. By the end of the first day of
hunting, with Doc having put several guinea fowl in the game bag and
I having missed twice as many, I was frustrated and angry with
myself. After all, I was an avid bird hunter and I remain so today
and missing a bird that size just wasn’t acceptable in my hunting
experience. The problem was that no matter how hard I tried and how
much I forced myself to calm down the guinea fowl were all escaping
my shots while Doc was knocking them down. I was badly spooked and
I knew it.
Sondela
Morning
The morning of our Sondela hunt Rob was
knocking on our chalet door before dawn. Our plan was to meet him,
have breakfast in the chalet and then go hunting. We hadn’t planned
on dragging our sorry butts out of bed before dawn.
“Hasn’t anyone told you that bird hunting
is a gentlemanly thing,” Doc said as he stumbled out of his
bedroom.
“I’ve heard that but the birds haven’t,”
James answered.
“Then tell them,” Doc quipped.
I felt like rolling over and going back to
sleep. I knew what was coming, more misses. I was cursed.
Instead, I pushed myself out of bed. I had a slight headache from
too many sundowners and I went into the kitchen for coffee. Chris
was up, cooking and disgustedly cheerful. I walked past him and
told him to take a short cut to the theological place of eternal
punishment, which he, of course, refused.
Breakfast downed and the sound of dogs
outside was enough to get us moving and in short order we were piled
into Rob’s pickup with the dogs and guns and we were off for the
birds. The first stop was a field where Rob assured us we would get
into at least two species of francolin and probably some guinea
fowl. Of course he was right and a few minutes after starting our
walk behind the coursing dogs one dog locked onto a perfect point
with the other dog backing.
“Francolin,” Rob said, “tell by the way
she’s pointing. Doc, she’s on your gun side, you take the bird.”
Doc did as he was told and walked toward
the frozen pointer, calmly talking to the dog as he walked. He was
only a few yards away when three birds exploded from the bush and
Doc calmly dropped two—a feat that pleased Rob.
The
next birds were mine and I managed to drop one of two that flushed
and then Chris took a turn, using his fine Spanish double to drop
one bird out of a pair. The morning didn’t slow down and we were
usually alternating our shooting although a few birds flushed
directly in front of us as we walked, having been missed by the
dogs. By mid morning our bag of birds was bulging when Rob stopped
us and signaled for us to join up on him.
“Guinea fowl,” he whispered when we were
close. He directed us to take up different positions, about ten
yards apart, and to walk toward the birds. He’d called the dogs
back and clipped them to leads. At first I thought he was nuts but
when Chris had two birds flush from practically under his feet I
started paying attention to the clumps of grass and small islands of
thorn thickets in the dry grass. My first chance came with a single
that exploded from under my foot and I thought I had it nailed when
I saw feathers fly from its tail. When the bird kept on going Rob
walked over to me, laughing and holding the dogs. “You just met the
armor plating of the guinea fowl,” he said. “Sometimes you can
clean all but the feathers from their wings and they keep going.
Strange birds, they are.”
I mumbled and picked up my two empties.
Doc made a shot that was the most
remarkable of the day. Two birds had let us walk right past them,
flushing only when Rob and the dogs got too close. They climbed
nearly straight up and then flew on a level flight path over Doc’s
head; a high path that Doc said was out of range.
“Shoot,” Rob shouted, “they’re in your
range.”
Doc shot at one bird, unloading both
barrels of his Beretta on the same bird. It wobbled but kept on
flying.
“Missed,” Doc said.
“No you didn’t, Doc,” Rob said. “Just
watch the bird.”
We did as we were told. The bird was
flying unimpaired when it suddenly folded its wings and dropped
straight to the ground, falling out of the sky like ripe fruit.
“I’ve seen it many times when hunting these birds. High flying bird
takes a single pellet through the heart, flies on for twenty, fifty
yards because it doesn’t know it’s dead, and then it just stops
flying.”
We ate lunch in the field, brought to us
by Joyce, and after a short rest we returned to the hunt. Rob tried
everything he could think of to get me a guinea fowl, and it was all
to no avail. I missed a full box of shots at guinea fowl and by the
end of the day, when we said goodbye to Rob and Joyce, to head for
our next hunt, my general feeling was that I was losing my touch as
a shotgunner.
Hunting with Boats
When we met Boats, at his farm house, we
spent a little time talking about the pleasantries of life then got
right to the point. We were there to go bird hunting. Chris and
Boats planned the day’s hunt and the morning was to be spent walking
along the river bottom, with Boats on the high banks above us. He
didn’t have dogs so he would spook the birds to us so we would have
the opportunities for pass shots at whatever he flushed. It worked
very well. Doc and I both killed francolins and Doc killed a guinea
fowl that Boats flushed over us. I didn’t take a shot at one of my
curse birds.
After we’d walked the planned distance
along the river we waited for Boats to work his way down from the
high banks. We’d been unable to retrieve two of the birds we
killed—Doc’s guinea fowl and a francolin. We returned to where the
birds had fallen then watched Boats find a route across the river,
pick up the guinea fowl and bring it back. We then went to where
the francolin had fallen into the water. Boats looked at the bird,
floating ten feet away. After thinking about it he figured out how
to retrieve the bird by using a long stick. After dropping the
soggy bird in Doc’s outstretched hands he said something in
Afrikaans and Doc looked at Chris for a translation.
“He
said he either has to get a dog or stop taking Americans hunting.”
The Great Guinea Fowl Flush
The mid morning break turned into a long
mid morning dove shoot. Boats drove us to an intersection of
several planted fields and after we’d drunk some coffee, eaten rusks
and rested up Doc and I decided to take a few shots at dove. The
few shots turned into the rest of the morning. The birds were
flying from every direction, and of several species. When Boats
asked us if we wanted to hunt more francolin we told him that we’d
rather stay in one place and shoot at dove until lunch. We did. We
lost track of the number of dove we killed and while we shot at
birds Boats and Chris built a fire and prepared sausages for lunch.
Boats’ mother brought out a hot guinea fowl pie and cold beer for
us.
“You know what will make this even
better?” I asked after lunch.
“What?” Doc said.
“Me breaking my curse and killing a guinea
fowl.”
Neither Doc nor Chris answered.
We rested for another half hour before
Boats asked us if we were ready for a most unusual experience. Of
course we were but what he proposed was startling. He explained
that the guinea fowl flocks were in fields on the far side of his
farm; about a mile from where he wanted to station us behind a line
of thorn brush. He planned to walk around the flocks, get behind
them and then, as he explained it, “attack the birds and send them
flying toward you. You’ll get lots of shooting.”
We were game for it and after picking up
all the chairs, boxes of empties and bags of dove we started for the
next phase of the hunt. Boats directed us to a series of thorn
brush islands in the grass. He gave explicit instructions not to
shoot at the first forty or fifty birds. “You’ll frighten the other
others and they will land. If you let some get past you then the
others will keep flying, even after they see you because they will
follow the other birds.”
It sounded okay to us. Chris, Doc and I
got in position and waited. The afternoon seemed to be getting
hotter but finally Chris shouted that he could see Boats. I looked
with my binoculars and sure enough, there was a mad man charging
what was becoming a rising cloud of guinea fowl. Some people say
the birds will gather into flocks of a couple of hundred birds, this
was a series of flocks of several hundred birds in each flock. As
Boats ran toward the birds he was waving his shirt and arms and
jumping up and down like a mad man who just escaped the cuckoo
nest. It was also working. The birds were in the air and headed
our direction, away from the nut case attacking them.
“Here they come,” I shouted and then put
the binoculars away.
“Remember, let the first group past,”
Chris said.
No
one answered; we just nodded and crouched behind the brush. We
could hear the wings even before the birds passed overhead, and then
the sky seemed full of birds. I kept reminding myself to pick out
one bird and concentrate on it. I looked toward Boats, there were
hundreds of birds still flying our way and we’d let at least a
hundred past without firing a shot.
“Let’s shoot,” Doc shouted as he stood up
and began tracking his first bird. I watched him bring his gun up,
follow the bird and then shoot, the shot connecting and the bird
tumbling to the ground.
There was no doubt about that shot and he
was already on another bird. I looked up, picked out a bird and
locked onto it like a heat seeking missile. I followed through and
fired and I saw the bird rock. I’d hit it but I didn’t want a heart
shot! I tracked it for the second shot and fired and the bird
folded its wings.
It was, I realized, anti-climatic. I’d
just broken the curse and it seemed too easy.
I marked where the bird fell, reloaded and
shot at another bird, missing it cleanly but the panic was gone and
I reloaded. By this time the birds were starting to thin out but I
picked a single bird out, tracked it and again locked onto the bird
and brought it down. A few minutes later Boats walked up to us. He
was breathing hard and grinning. “
Got
some birds that time didn’t we!” he said.
All of us were smiling. We had each
killed at least two birds.
“And you,” he said, pointing to me, “you
can kill a guinea fowl.”
There was little else to say. We walked
to the Land Cruiser and while Chris drove, Doc and I rode in the
back, standing up and holding on to our shotguns.
Occasionally Chris would stop and we’d run
a hundred yards one direction or the other to get under some flying
guinea fowl for some fast pass shooting.
Today I don’t even remember if I hit a
bird on the evening shooting because my mind focused then, and
focuses now, on the bird that broke my curse.
Galen
L. Geer is a former United States Marine Drill Instructor
and Vietnam veteran. A professional outdoor
hunting, shooting and gun writer, he published
2000 magazine articles. He has been a contributing editor to Soldier of
Fortune magazine for thirty years and is the author of seven
books. |
That and what Doc said as we rode in the
back of the truck toward Boats’ farmhouse.
“This has been another good day in
Africa.”
“Yeah, it has been Doc, a damned good day
in Africa,” I said.
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