To a nimrod bent on closing quarters with these
creatures on foot, it becomes a game of burning out shoe leather, in
company with a very good tracker. Being as this creature, also known
as the giant eland, was on my life list of desired achievements, I
was willing to suffer to achieve that end, and suffer I did.
My personal quest for the Lord Derby began when I
was thirteen years old and my father came back from his hunt to tell
me he had lost his eland as it crossed into a national park. He had
been the guest of the Lamido of Rey-Bouba, a king living in the
northern part of Cameroun. It was a real heartbreaker for him, as
well as for his son, who hero-worshiped his father and could not
imagine his not killing anything instantly with his famous .375 H&H
magnum.
Fast
forward 41 years and this very same son was now battling extreme
heat and dehydration while pursuing the distant progeny of the eland
that had managed to elude his father. The merciless sun beat down on
my tracker and me as we painstakingly unraveled the string of tracks
left in the plain in front of us. I actually liked this part of the
quest. It gave me moments of pleasure to help trace the elusive
tracks through the scrub as the bull meandered ahead of us pausing
to take in a few delicate morsels before he found a shady overlook
to rest for the day.
It was now myself who was the guest of the Lamido’s
son. The new king had recently ascended to the throne as the ruler
after the demise of his father. He now ruled over an area larger
than several European countries. In his kingdom he is absolute
monarch over some 50,000 inhabitants of this sparsely inhabited
semi-desert of northern Cameroon. As his guest I had exclusive
privileges to hunt in his royal estate, but alas, the estate had
been poorly managed for the last four decades and the wandering
eland had all continued their wandering off into safer quarters.
Where they had taken refuge was a series of rocky
ridges as far from humans as they could get, but not so far that a
good bit of suffering could not close the gap. It just required that
you have a good set of shoes, a lot of water and a good tracker.
I was hunting a range of rocky plateaus in northern
Cameroon. My preferred style of hunting was to take a string of
local porters and march into the roadless back country while looking
for fresh tracks. The local trackers knew where the few remaining
water holes were and we went from watering point to watering point
trying to pick up fresh tracks.
After
several days of finding only old tracks and buffalo we jumped a nice
bull roan and were in hot pursuit. We were so close in fact we had
already jumped him once. He was in full flight, so we were just
slowly picking our way along an easy to follow, deeply rutted set of
tracks. Suddenly my tracker stopped and pointed. "Eland" he said in
a whisper.
Now I had been hunting with this exceptional tracker
for several years and he had always shown great decision making
skills. He no longer pointed things out to me unless he thought they
would be of significant interest. Most of the time we just communed
with hand signals and kept silent. Well these tracks were of
interest, as they consisted of a solitary bull eland meandering
along as he browsed the new shoots. This same tracker had been into
the area a month before to burn the old thatch grass and this had
promoted the growth of the new shoots and buds on the trees, which
the eland was now enjoying. Many people claim their trackers are
"the best," but I think each set of trackers gets to know a certain
local area and a set of animals intimately. Only after they have
spent countless hours in their particular habitat are they prepared
to make it to the next "level" of tracking. At this point they no
longer seem to actually track the animal, but sort of "become" the
animal, intuitively knowing where it is going, and take short cuts
to allow the hunter to catch up to fast moving animals. They know
when to slow down to a crawl if the animal is looking to rest. They
can "feel" when the animal is hurt or looking for a place to lie
down and then seem to know exactly where he will do that.
Rene
was just this kind of tracker. I had, on a number of previous trips,
followed a specific animal for 2 days in a row before we caught up
to it. On more than one occasion that meant cutting leaves for a bed
while sleeping between two fires to ward off the surprisingly cold
chill of the night. A head net to ward off mosquitoes and the sweat
and salt encrusted clothes sufficed for blankets as we waited for
dawn to pick up the track again. On other occasions Rene simply
suggested we give up after we jumped an eland a couple of times
saying that this animal was never going to be caught by tracking and
would make it to the nearby boundary before we caught it.
That
very thing had happened the year before. We had picked up the tracks
of a solitary eland bull fairly early in the morning. It was feeding
and moving slowly so we knew we were catching up with him. Then the
meandering tracks indicated it was looking for a place to lie down
and we slowed to a quiet crawl. It chose a place below the crest of
a fairly steep hill and settled down. When we got to the bed it was
still fresh, but the animal had already moved off. A hurried
whispering conversation took place, as our time was running short.
Then the number two tracker, Patrick, told me I needed to backup to
where he was, because he could actually see the bull. Unfortunately
for me, the bull had relocated his bed only about 50 yards. Our
whispering alerted him to our presence and he was just standing
there in all his magnificence. Fortunately for him he had chosen his
second bed wisely and with two steps he was up and over the ridge
and gone.
As pre-arranged, I tossed my rifle to the tracker
and threw all my personal gear down so I could run. The number two
tracker was to collect my backpack, bringing water and my gear,
allowing me to run more freely. Being the oldest and least fit of
the group I hoped this would help, but after a mile it was clear it
was fruitless. The big bull was not going to stop and he was headed
directly into the neighboring concession. He was also headed
directly away from home, so we called it off and headed back.
The Lord Derby continued to stay in control of our
grudge match. On other occasions my tracker Rene has been tenacious,
refusing to quit even when I explicitly told him we had to. In every
case where he insisted we follow, we got our animal, occasionally
not that day, but usually the next. We had successfully hunted
almost all of the local species, except the Lord Derby. Now as he
insisted that we should consider following the eland tracks I was in
complete agreement.
We
had left the porters a day’s walk away and so it was just the two of
us. We could move quietly and the eland was moving into the wind,
feeding on the fresh shoots coming from the burned shrubs. It seemed
a perfect set up.
As we followed along it was clear we were getting
closer. We found wet mud that had stuck to the eland’s hooves from
where he had watered. The urine was still moist on the sandy soil,
but he was still moving and even at a walk I knew an eland can
simply slide into the distance like so much smoke.
Suddenly the eland changed course, and at the same
time the wind shifted with the coming of the noonday heat. Rather
than risk disturbing him, Rene called for a water break. I was
hesitant, but bowed to his superior knowledge, knowing he had as
much craving for a successful conclusion to the hunt as I did. By
now our water was the temperature of tepid tea, but better than it
would be in a few hours, when it would actually be hot. We sipped
and rested in some sparse shade while we shared a bit of a snack.
When the wind died down we took back the trail, like a long string,
and started to wind it back up into a ball.
Rene
knew if we just patient we would catch up, and rushing things at
this point in the game would be a mistake. When it did happen it was
quite sudden. Rene could suddenly see him from his position in
front, but I could only see movement and bush. I was afraid to move
up the couple of feet separating us, but afraid if I did not move I
would have a repeat of the previous year where all I saw was a
disappearing dream. I anxiously waited and Rene signaled that the
eland was moving to our right and I needed to be ready. I was more
than ready, I was 41 years ready and when the magnificent bull
walked out into a small clearing I put the .375 where his massive
neck met his body and pulled the trigger. He did not run any
further; he did not take even one more step, much less make it into
the National Park, many miles away.
I
was elated. This was truly the most magnificent animal I had ever
had the honor of following and matching wits with in my hunting
career. He was not the best of his species, in fact I would only put
him as a solid representative, but he was My Lord Derby and I was on
foot, two day’s walk from the nearest road. It represented a massive
amount of homework and dedication to finally collect a Lord Derby
Eland. I had spent years, tracking and following the species, but
had always been disappointed. Now that demon was laid to rest at my
feet and I could only hope my departed father was able to rejoice
with me.
We walked to camp in about five hours and sent the
porters back for all of the meat, while we worked on the cape, which
we took with us. The porters made excellent time and all the meat
was brought to camp and prepared as jerky in the dry climate.
To
cap off a great hunt my Danish companion was also able to collect a
magnificent eland in the same general area. He also collected
buffalo, western hartebeest, harnessed bushbuck, duiker and passed
up on a nice roan while tracking eland.
To say that we were both pleased with ourselves
would be a vast understatement.
While snapping a few commemorative photos I felt
more of a hunter than any time before or after. The only possible
exception was perhaps when I shot my bongo, as I had no tracker or
companion with me at all on that trip. There is something about
doing it yourself, with no PH to scout it out for you and tell you
what to do and which one to shoot.
|
Cam
Greig was born and raised in Cameroun where he conducts
and helps others conduct self-guided hunts on an annual
basis. He can be reached at +(USA) 650-948-4560 |
To have organized the porters, found a place to hunt
and kept at the language and all that it took to make it happen was
extremely fulfilling. I felt back in touch with my ancestors, not
only my father, but my grandfather who came to Cameroun in the early
1900’s, on beyond to all our common ancestors who hunted as a means
to live, not as a supplemental aspect to their lives. Society has
lost track of our true heritage among all the high rises, and
asphalt. For now I could just enjoy the great environment I was
immersed in, heat and all. I know I had provided meat for a
substantial portion of the village, just like my ancestors.
I knew I would be back to suffer again.