Shooting accurately under field conditions can be a
challenge. It is fairly easy to cleanly "kill" a paper target on the
shooting range because you are relaxed, have a stable shooting bench
and the targets wait, obligingly and motionless to be perforated.
Although
it is generally agreed that hunters should use some kind of support
for the rifle when they shoot, many do not give this issue much
thought – until they actually need a rest. Nature provides anthills,
branches and big rocks, etc but these are often not in the right
place or too high, low or just too awkward to use, when you need
them. One of the biggest problems with natural rests is that many
hunters are not accustomed to using them and are therefore so
uncomfortable when doing so, that they take too long to settle in
and get a shot off.
To get familiar with and use natural rests with
confidence you have to use them during practice sessions.
Unfortunately shooting ranges do not have conveniently placed
natural rests as shooting aids but where there is a will, there is a
way. Most of us have shrubs and trees in our gardens and these can
be used during dry-firing sessions. Just make sure you are out of
the public eye when practising in your back yard.
When hunting in dense African bushveld or even in
the more open savannahs, the hunter is more often than not obliged
to take shots from the standing position because long grass and
other vegetation make it impossible to use the more stable sitting
position. For that reason, home- or factory-made bi- or tripod
"shooting sticks" are very handy. The most versatile, lightweight
rests are factory-made aluminium ones with adjustable legs which
make them suitable for standing kneeling and sitting shots. Stoney
Point’s tripod and the BOG-PODS from BOGgear have three-section
telescoping legs that rank among the best available today.
Unfortunately these tripods are quite expensive.
Some
people prefer to use bipods from the standing position but a tripod
is more stable and can stand on its own. I have seen many types of
homemade shooting sticks fashioned from wooden dowels, bamboo, broom
sticks and aluminium tubing. Any material that is strong and stable
enough will do and if you have to carry the sticks yourself weight
is an important consideration. I always hunt on my own and therefore
have to carry whatever I use in the veld myself. Broom sticks are
too heavy so DIY people should use bamboo, wooden dowels or
aluminium tubing. Such homemade shooting sticks normally are not
adjustable for length and it is important to use material that
provides enough stability when using the sticks from the sitting
position. The legs are normally bound together by inner tubing or
joined by bolts and nuts and the rifle is then rested in the web or
wedge that is created where the legs are joined. Factory-made
shooting sticks have purpose-made, user-friendly wedges (see
picture). However, when the hunter is sitting, he uses only one of
the legs and uses his hand to support the rifle. If the leg is too
thin it will be wobbly (not sturdy enough) and accurate shooting off
it will be difficult.
Many
overseas hunters who come to Africa have never used a tri- or bipod
from the standing position and a good number of them find it very
challenging. However, once you have mastered the shooting sticks you
will realise that it is in many ways better than most natural rests.
In the African bushveld I’d say about 75% or even more shots are
taken from the standing position (more shots can actually be taken
from the sitting position but that requires more movement and
adjusting the shooting sticks). Practise with those long shooting
sticks until you are familiar with them. Hunting in Africa does not
always require bull’s-eye accuracy at long ranges - getting into
position fast and shooting quickly is more often than not far more
important that hitting a small target. In the African bush a 150
yard shot is regarded as a long-range shot. If you can place your
shots inside a six inch circle at that distance form a standing
position off a rest you will be OK.
In
more open country shooting distances are often longer, especially if
you go after plains game such as springbuck or blesbuck or mountain
dwellers such as the elusive vaal rhebok. For longer shots one would
preferably use the sitting or even the prone position. A Harris or
similar bipod that attaches to the fore-end of the rifle is a good
option. The biggest problem with such a bipod is that it makes the
rifle bulky and adds weight. For those who ambush game and stay
stationary for long periods a heavy, bulky rifle is not a problem,
but walk-and-stalk hunters find such rifles awkward and a schlep to
carry. Attaching a bipod can also make your rifle shoot to a
different point of impact (usually lower). I have found that the
shorter, lightweight bipods meant for prone shooting (the ones that
adjust from say six to 13") normally do not have an influence on the
point of impact. The longer, heavier ones (adjustable from about 13
to 27") which are used when shooting from the sitting position often
cause rifles to shoot lower when they are attached because they add
weight to the fore-end. Always sight your rifle in with the bipod
attached.
For shooting from the sitting position I carry
Stoneypoint’s Safari Stix, a very lightweight, collapsible bipod.
When folded up it rides comfortably in its pouch on my belt.
Whenever I hunt in terrain that allows the use of the prone position
I carry a second short bipod that rides in the same pouch. The legs
of this bipod are 36cm (just over 14") in length and I have bolted
them together about four inches from the top. A spacer between the
legs where they hinge allowed me to pad the V-rest. When using this
bipod the non-shooting arm provides a third leg and the elbow acts
as the third anchor point. I added a retaining string to this short
bipod to prevent the legs from opening wider than my preferred
position. That also negates the necessity of holding onto the bipod
where it hinges with the non-shooting hand to control the leg
positions.
When
I hunt in terrain where standing and sitting shots are the norm, I
carry long sticks and my collapsible bipod on my belt. In open
country where sitting and/or prone shots are the norm, I carry the
lightweight sitting and prone bipods in my belt pouch. With these
combinations I have the right shooting sticks for any situation at
hand.
I often shoot from the sitting position over sticks
because it provides a stable platform. Used correctly it elevates
the shooter above fairly tall grass. I always sit flat on my bum and
face away from the target at an angle of between 30 to 45 degrees.
At times I draw both my knees up and either keep my feet flat on the
ground or dig my heels in while resting my elbows on my knees with
the non-shooting hand holding the bipod. My favourite position,
however, is to draw up only my right knee and, with my foot flat on
the ground, rest the elbow of my right arm (my shooting hand) on it
while my left leg is held flat on the ground. I can sit very long in
that position without getting tired and putting tension on my leg
muscles. When your muscles get tense you start to shake. To get into
a comfortable sitting position quickly, settle down and shoot is not
so easy – you need to be fairly flexible and you must know in an
instant what position you are going to use. That only comes with
regular practice.
I have, for some reason never felt comfortable and
very stable when using the kneeling position (with or without
shooting sticks) and never attempt it. Find out what position your
body is comfortable with and then practice regularly.
I
have basically given up using my rifle sling for steady aiming
because it really only works well when you shoot from the prone
position and only when it has been modified to resemble a target or
deliberate sling. A target sling has a single loop that fits around
the upper left arm. With the sling correctly adjusted for length and
in place around the upper arm, grab the fore-end and move the hand
forwards or back to remove any slack. Increasing the angle between
the biceps and the forearm - pushing the forearm away from the body
– allows the shooter to put the right amount of tension on the
sling. The leverage afforded by your arm will brace the rifle in
place.
Proper target slings are of course useless for
carrying because they only attach to the rifle at one point. There
are, however, carry slings on the market with integral, fully
adjustable loops.
Koos
Barnard is an ex-professional hunter and a full time gun
writer, having published hundreds of articles. He was
born in Namibia and has been a keen hunter since his
youth. |
With the loop correctly adjusted for length you
simply slip your arm through it in the same way as you would a
target sling. Instead of buying one I made my own from leather and
it works just fine. Of the thousands of animals I had shot, I can
probably count the times when I had used a sling on one hand.
Take
a rest whenever you can but remember; if you really want to get the
most from a shooting rest, practice by using different kinds of
rests from a variety of shooting positions.